Pinot gris is a grape varietal that gets a bad rap due to the volume of bottles that are sold under the pinot grigio label; bottles that are a watered down version of the original. Let me point out that you can find nice pinot grigio from Italy but it is a chore. Pinot gris (different name, same grape) usually originates in Alsace, France, Germany or, lately, Willamette Valley, Oregon. This bottling came from Alsace which is on the North-East corner of France, on the border of France and Germany (and in many ways the region is very German in nature both in terms of grape production and food, culture, city lay-outs). Think brautwurst and not beef bourgogne.
Getting back to the wine, pinot gris is a full bodied white wine that has a very similar mouth-feel to a German or Alsatian riesling. Personally, I love the full bodied texture of the wine and thinks it actually makes it FEEL right when paired with food.The main difference is that pinot gris is less sweet and acidic than riesling.
Pinot gris is generally considered a very good accompaniment to seafood and we tested that theory tonight with a homemade szichuan shrimp and mung bean noodle entree. It held its own against the meal even though the meal was a 9 on the spicy scale. Usually, I would pair a riesling, or a gruner veltliner with a spicy dish but my wife picked this one out and I thought it worked excellently.
This wine had a golden hue bordering on basketball-orange. If I didn't know any better, I would have that the wine had past its prime and was undrinkable. Even if I didn't know any better, by tasting this wine I would know that it was in its prime (maybe even before its prime) and very drinkable. In fact, experts say this wine can last another 15 years (don't try that with an Oregon version though because their wines lack some of the complexity of one from Alsace). I give this wine a 92. I found it for $30 in my local wine shop but I think the usual retail is $45 so it's not necessarily a value wine but a great one nevertheless.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Emotions in wine reviews
Do you ever wonder how professional wine reviewers can put emotion aside to impartially review wines? I certainly do. I wonder whether, when Robert Parker has a really good day, he isn't more likely to give a 1997 Brunello a 98 rating. And a 96 on a horrendous day. Isn't that human nature really?
Further, are there some days where our senses are different, or more refined than others? I certainly think so.
If I sound like Andy Rooney, I don't mean to.
It's amazing to think how much wine economics can be based on what side of the bed somebody wakes up on.
Further, are there some days where our senses are different, or more refined than others? I certainly think so.
If I sound like Andy Rooney, I don't mean to.
It's amazing to think how much wine economics can be based on what side of the bed somebody wakes up on.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
2006 Hyde de Villaine "HdV" Carneros Chardonnay
WOWOWOWOWOOWOWOWOWOOWOWOW!
I am an apple lover so this wine pleased me as macintosh flavors made their way throughout. Beyond that, almonds, serious minerality and a rich butter profile worked its way through the back palate. Having just recently returned from France in the past three months, if I didn't know any better, I would have mistaken this wine for a Puligny Montrachet or a Chassagne Montrachet. This wine was oaked to perfection, was layered and exhibited aging potential. It has serious backbone. I am not used to that in California.
At $35, however, good luck finding a wine that tastes this good in the aforementioned regions in Burgundy, France. While still moderately priced, this wine offers great value for the complexity.
I'm sold. I give it a 94 and will probably pick up another bottle to age with my Burgundies to see how it stacks up in a few years.
I am an apple lover so this wine pleased me as macintosh flavors made their way throughout. Beyond that, almonds, serious minerality and a rich butter profile worked its way through the back palate. Having just recently returned from France in the past three months, if I didn't know any better, I would have mistaken this wine for a Puligny Montrachet or a Chassagne Montrachet. This wine was oaked to perfection, was layered and exhibited aging potential. It has serious backbone. I am not used to that in California.
At $35, however, good luck finding a wine that tastes this good in the aforementioned regions in Burgundy, France. While still moderately priced, this wine offers great value for the complexity.
I'm sold. I give it a 94 and will probably pick up another bottle to age with my Burgundies to see how it stacks up in a few years.
Schiopetto Sauvignon Blanc 2006
I always like firsts when it comes to wine. There aren't many left for me, but then again, with how quickly the wine world changes, maybe I'm just being pessimistic!
This was the first Italian sauvignon blanc I have ever tasted and I am a huge fan of sauvignon blanc so obviously I haven't ventured too far from my wheelhouse of New Zealand, California and France.
Now let me start by saying that I like grassy herbaceousness (it's not a word but I like it). Kim Crawford, one of my favorite New Zealand sauvis year after year, defines grassy sauvi but it does so in a well balanced manner where the acidity really holds the wine together. Frankly, this wine did not. It did however get better with food; it cut well through the salmon and might just happen to be one of those wines (of which there are many) where it goes well with food but cannot be an appertif or cocktail by itself. That's not a bad thing as long as you know what you're getting into.
I give this wine an 88 but at $25, you'd be better off playing in New Zealand unless, of course, you're up for a first!
This was the first Italian sauvignon blanc I have ever tasted and I am a huge fan of sauvignon blanc so obviously I haven't ventured too far from my wheelhouse of New Zealand, California and France.
Now let me start by saying that I like grassy herbaceousness (it's not a word but I like it). Kim Crawford, one of my favorite New Zealand sauvis year after year, defines grassy sauvi but it does so in a well balanced manner where the acidity really holds the wine together. Frankly, this wine did not. It did however get better with food; it cut well through the salmon and might just happen to be one of those wines (of which there are many) where it goes well with food but cannot be an appertif or cocktail by itself. That's not a bad thing as long as you know what you're getting into.
I give this wine an 88 but at $25, you'd be better off playing in New Zealand unless, of course, you're up for a first!
Perrin and Fils 2006 Vinsobres
This wine was the second that I reviewed from the well known French Producer, Perrin and Fils, and it won't be the last. Perrin and Fils makes great Rhone red wines, and they also happen to be very competitively priced.This wine is a blend of 65/35, syrah/grenache and retails for $19.00. Perrin and Fils is a family owned operation that is run by the Perrin family which has owned a lot of prime real estate in the Southern Rhone since 1909. The fourth generation is running it today but the fifth generation is already working for the winery so it's safe to say that this will continue to be family run for quite some time. And that's a good thing.
Having tasted at least 4 different wines from Perrin and Fils, I think the thing comes to mind along with value is a sense of terroir.Now with that said, I must say that as you go up the ladder of their red wines, the complexity and range of finish intensifies. But that's the way it's supposed to be AND it's not always the case with other vineyards.
Suffice it to say that I gloat about this winery because I challenge anyone to pick a red wine by them that is not well made. In fact, to test my theory, I'm going to expand into other reds and then head into white territory, where they tend to make Rhone style whites with Marsanne, Roussane, viognier and grenache blanc. I bet you those offer good value too. Only time will tell.
As for this wine, black cherries and raspberries are the predominant feature with a long, clean finish. The wine has perfect acidity as an accompaniment with your best game meat dinner.
I concur with Wine Spectator and give this wine a 91. And I hope you take me up on my challenge!
Having tasted at least 4 different wines from Perrin and Fils, I think the thing comes to mind along with value is a sense of terroir.Now with that said, I must say that as you go up the ladder of their red wines, the complexity and range of finish intensifies. But that's the way it's supposed to be AND it's not always the case with other vineyards.
Suffice it to say that I gloat about this winery because I challenge anyone to pick a red wine by them that is not well made. In fact, to test my theory, I'm going to expand into other reds and then head into white territory, where they tend to make Rhone style whites with Marsanne, Roussane, viognier and grenache blanc. I bet you those offer good value too. Only time will tell.
As for this wine, black cherries and raspberries are the predominant feature with a long, clean finish. The wine has perfect acidity as an accompaniment with your best game meat dinner.
I concur with Wine Spectator and give this wine a 91. And I hope you take me up on my challenge!
Sunday, January 10, 2010
2002 Oliver's Taranga Shiraz
Shiraz has gained enormously in popularity over the past decade primarily due to the enormous acreage of quality manifestations of the grape throughout Australia. The profile of the grape also lends itself to the average drinker- dark fruit, chocolate and pepper (oh, and usually high alcohol).
This wine was the most aged shiraz that I have ever had (8 years). It opened my eyes a little bit to the value of aging shiraz since the flavor profile definitely matured as compared to most Australian shiraz that I have drunk in the past. While the wine still had black pepper and blackberry flavors, it also was beginning to develop a leather/chocolate profile. I think I might need to age some more shiraz bottles in the future after tasting this wine as it has a lot to offer. I give this wine a 92 and I might buy another one just to compare my tasting notes in five years or so.
This wine was the most aged shiraz that I have ever had (8 years). It opened my eyes a little bit to the value of aging shiraz since the flavor profile definitely matured as compared to most Australian shiraz that I have drunk in the past. While the wine still had black pepper and blackberry flavors, it also was beginning to develop a leather/chocolate profile. I think I might need to age some more shiraz bottles in the future after tasting this wine as it has a lot to offer. I give this wine a 92 and I might buy another one just to compare my tasting notes in five years or so.
2006 Torii Mor Pinot Noir
A wine without a nose. Not quite as a bad as a person without a nose but pretty close. This wine actually smelled like alcohol; not over the top alcohol, but alcohol nonetheless. I really couldn't smell anything. The good news is that the wine had more flavors after the tasting: mainly a strawberry profile.
I've been to Torii Mor in the Willamette Valley and this is not one of their better efforts. It's not a bad wine and it's a relatively easy drinking pinot. BUT at $30/bottle you can find better valued pinots in Oregon, New Zealand or even now in Chile or Argentina. I'd give this effort an 87 and pass. Don't bypass this vineyard entirely as they have some more expensive pinots that have a lot more to offer.
I've been to Torii Mor in the Willamette Valley and this is not one of their better efforts. It's not a bad wine and it's a relatively easy drinking pinot. BUT at $30/bottle you can find better valued pinots in Oregon, New Zealand or even now in Chile or Argentina. I'd give this effort an 87 and pass. Don't bypass this vineyard entirely as they have some more expensive pinots that have a lot more to offer.
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