Pinot gris is a grape varietal that gets a bad rap due to the volume of bottles that are sold under the pinot grigio label; bottles that are a watered down version of the original. Let me point out that you can find nice pinot grigio from Italy but it is a chore. Pinot gris (different name, same grape) usually originates in Alsace, France, Germany or, lately, Willamette Valley, Oregon. This bottling came from Alsace which is on the North-East corner of France, on the border of France and Germany (and in many ways the region is very German in nature both in terms of grape production and food, culture, city lay-outs). Think brautwurst and not beef bourgogne.
Getting back to the wine, pinot gris is a full bodied white wine that has a very similar mouth-feel to a German or Alsatian riesling. Personally, I love the full bodied texture of the wine and thinks it actually makes it FEEL right when paired with food.The main difference is that pinot gris is less sweet and acidic than riesling.
Pinot gris is generally considered a very good accompaniment to seafood and we tested that theory tonight with a homemade szichuan shrimp and mung bean noodle entree. It held its own against the meal even though the meal was a 9 on the spicy scale. Usually, I would pair a riesling, or a gruner veltliner with a spicy dish but my wife picked this one out and I thought it worked excellently.
This wine had a golden hue bordering on basketball-orange. If I didn't know any better, I would have that the wine had past its prime and was undrinkable. Even if I didn't know any better, by tasting this wine I would know that it was in its prime (maybe even before its prime) and very drinkable. In fact, experts say this wine can last another 15 years (don't try that with an Oregon version though because their wines lack some of the complexity of one from Alsace). I give this wine a 92. I found it for $30 in my local wine shop but I think the usual retail is $45 so it's not necessarily a value wine but a great one nevertheless.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Emotions in wine reviews
Do you ever wonder how professional wine reviewers can put emotion aside to impartially review wines? I certainly do. I wonder whether, when Robert Parker has a really good day, he isn't more likely to give a 1997 Brunello a 98 rating. And a 96 on a horrendous day. Isn't that human nature really?
Further, are there some days where our senses are different, or more refined than others? I certainly think so.
If I sound like Andy Rooney, I don't mean to.
It's amazing to think how much wine economics can be based on what side of the bed somebody wakes up on.
Further, are there some days where our senses are different, or more refined than others? I certainly think so.
If I sound like Andy Rooney, I don't mean to.
It's amazing to think how much wine economics can be based on what side of the bed somebody wakes up on.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
2006 Hyde de Villaine "HdV" Carneros Chardonnay
WOWOWOWOWOOWOWOWOWOOWOWOW!
I am an apple lover so this wine pleased me as macintosh flavors made their way throughout. Beyond that, almonds, serious minerality and a rich butter profile worked its way through the back palate. Having just recently returned from France in the past three months, if I didn't know any better, I would have mistaken this wine for a Puligny Montrachet or a Chassagne Montrachet. This wine was oaked to perfection, was layered and exhibited aging potential. It has serious backbone. I am not used to that in California.
At $35, however, good luck finding a wine that tastes this good in the aforementioned regions in Burgundy, France. While still moderately priced, this wine offers great value for the complexity.
I'm sold. I give it a 94 and will probably pick up another bottle to age with my Burgundies to see how it stacks up in a few years.
I am an apple lover so this wine pleased me as macintosh flavors made their way throughout. Beyond that, almonds, serious minerality and a rich butter profile worked its way through the back palate. Having just recently returned from France in the past three months, if I didn't know any better, I would have mistaken this wine for a Puligny Montrachet or a Chassagne Montrachet. This wine was oaked to perfection, was layered and exhibited aging potential. It has serious backbone. I am not used to that in California.
At $35, however, good luck finding a wine that tastes this good in the aforementioned regions in Burgundy, France. While still moderately priced, this wine offers great value for the complexity.
I'm sold. I give it a 94 and will probably pick up another bottle to age with my Burgundies to see how it stacks up in a few years.
Schiopetto Sauvignon Blanc 2006
I always like firsts when it comes to wine. There aren't many left for me, but then again, with how quickly the wine world changes, maybe I'm just being pessimistic!
This was the first Italian sauvignon blanc I have ever tasted and I am a huge fan of sauvignon blanc so obviously I haven't ventured too far from my wheelhouse of New Zealand, California and France.
Now let me start by saying that I like grassy herbaceousness (it's not a word but I like it). Kim Crawford, one of my favorite New Zealand sauvis year after year, defines grassy sauvi but it does so in a well balanced manner where the acidity really holds the wine together. Frankly, this wine did not. It did however get better with food; it cut well through the salmon and might just happen to be one of those wines (of which there are many) where it goes well with food but cannot be an appertif or cocktail by itself. That's not a bad thing as long as you know what you're getting into.
I give this wine an 88 but at $25, you'd be better off playing in New Zealand unless, of course, you're up for a first!
This was the first Italian sauvignon blanc I have ever tasted and I am a huge fan of sauvignon blanc so obviously I haven't ventured too far from my wheelhouse of New Zealand, California and France.
Now let me start by saying that I like grassy herbaceousness (it's not a word but I like it). Kim Crawford, one of my favorite New Zealand sauvis year after year, defines grassy sauvi but it does so in a well balanced manner where the acidity really holds the wine together. Frankly, this wine did not. It did however get better with food; it cut well through the salmon and might just happen to be one of those wines (of which there are many) where it goes well with food but cannot be an appertif or cocktail by itself. That's not a bad thing as long as you know what you're getting into.
I give this wine an 88 but at $25, you'd be better off playing in New Zealand unless, of course, you're up for a first!
Perrin and Fils 2006 Vinsobres
This wine was the second that I reviewed from the well known French Producer, Perrin and Fils, and it won't be the last. Perrin and Fils makes great Rhone red wines, and they also happen to be very competitively priced.This wine is a blend of 65/35, syrah/grenache and retails for $19.00. Perrin and Fils is a family owned operation that is run by the Perrin family which has owned a lot of prime real estate in the Southern Rhone since 1909. The fourth generation is running it today but the fifth generation is already working for the winery so it's safe to say that this will continue to be family run for quite some time. And that's a good thing.
Having tasted at least 4 different wines from Perrin and Fils, I think the thing comes to mind along with value is a sense of terroir.Now with that said, I must say that as you go up the ladder of their red wines, the complexity and range of finish intensifies. But that's the way it's supposed to be AND it's not always the case with other vineyards.
Suffice it to say that I gloat about this winery because I challenge anyone to pick a red wine by them that is not well made. In fact, to test my theory, I'm going to expand into other reds and then head into white territory, where they tend to make Rhone style whites with Marsanne, Roussane, viognier and grenache blanc. I bet you those offer good value too. Only time will tell.
As for this wine, black cherries and raspberries are the predominant feature with a long, clean finish. The wine has perfect acidity as an accompaniment with your best game meat dinner.
I concur with Wine Spectator and give this wine a 91. And I hope you take me up on my challenge!
Having tasted at least 4 different wines from Perrin and Fils, I think the thing comes to mind along with value is a sense of terroir.Now with that said, I must say that as you go up the ladder of their red wines, the complexity and range of finish intensifies. But that's the way it's supposed to be AND it's not always the case with other vineyards.
Suffice it to say that I gloat about this winery because I challenge anyone to pick a red wine by them that is not well made. In fact, to test my theory, I'm going to expand into other reds and then head into white territory, where they tend to make Rhone style whites with Marsanne, Roussane, viognier and grenache blanc. I bet you those offer good value too. Only time will tell.
As for this wine, black cherries and raspberries are the predominant feature with a long, clean finish. The wine has perfect acidity as an accompaniment with your best game meat dinner.
I concur with Wine Spectator and give this wine a 91. And I hope you take me up on my challenge!
Sunday, January 10, 2010
2002 Oliver's Taranga Shiraz
Shiraz has gained enormously in popularity over the past decade primarily due to the enormous acreage of quality manifestations of the grape throughout Australia. The profile of the grape also lends itself to the average drinker- dark fruit, chocolate and pepper (oh, and usually high alcohol).
This wine was the most aged shiraz that I have ever had (8 years). It opened my eyes a little bit to the value of aging shiraz since the flavor profile definitely matured as compared to most Australian shiraz that I have drunk in the past. While the wine still had black pepper and blackberry flavors, it also was beginning to develop a leather/chocolate profile. I think I might need to age some more shiraz bottles in the future after tasting this wine as it has a lot to offer. I give this wine a 92 and I might buy another one just to compare my tasting notes in five years or so.
This wine was the most aged shiraz that I have ever had (8 years). It opened my eyes a little bit to the value of aging shiraz since the flavor profile definitely matured as compared to most Australian shiraz that I have drunk in the past. While the wine still had black pepper and blackberry flavors, it also was beginning to develop a leather/chocolate profile. I think I might need to age some more shiraz bottles in the future after tasting this wine as it has a lot to offer. I give this wine a 92 and I might buy another one just to compare my tasting notes in five years or so.
2006 Torii Mor Pinot Noir
A wine without a nose. Not quite as a bad as a person without a nose but pretty close. This wine actually smelled like alcohol; not over the top alcohol, but alcohol nonetheless. I really couldn't smell anything. The good news is that the wine had more flavors after the tasting: mainly a strawberry profile.
I've been to Torii Mor in the Willamette Valley and this is not one of their better efforts. It's not a bad wine and it's a relatively easy drinking pinot. BUT at $30/bottle you can find better valued pinots in Oregon, New Zealand or even now in Chile or Argentina. I'd give this effort an 87 and pass. Don't bypass this vineyard entirely as they have some more expensive pinots that have a lot more to offer.
I've been to Torii Mor in the Willamette Valley and this is not one of their better efforts. It's not a bad wine and it's a relatively easy drinking pinot. BUT at $30/bottle you can find better valued pinots in Oregon, New Zealand or even now in Chile or Argentina. I'd give this effort an 87 and pass. Don't bypass this vineyard entirely as they have some more expensive pinots that have a lot more to offer.
Saturday, January 9, 2010
MacRostie Wildcat Mountain Chardonnay 2006
Sonoma has been battling Napa Valley for years for the designation of best wine region in California. That battle has been staged primarily in cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays, although both regions produce other varietals as well.
When it comes to chardonnay, I think I give the edge to Sonoma for value. This offering, from a producer who specializes in pinots and chardonnays, can open the chardonnay hater to the beauty of this grape. Oftentimes, chardonnay, particulary California chardonnay, is over-oaked taking away the nuances of the grape. The sad fact is that many people have confused the chardonnay grape with oak, high alcohol, buttery aromas and a full body. Some people love that profile; others hate it. For the lovers, I recommend you try this wine to see the complexity in other chardonnays. For the haters, try this wine and see that California can make beautiful chardonnays and that you might actually enjoy the grape.
This wine was aged 25% in new French Oak barrels for 11 months. The oak was part of the equation, but not the answer. The full body was also part of the equation, as it usually is unless you are drinking a Chablis. This wine had various tropical fruits on the palate and honey on the nose. With almost every draw, I picked up something different. This is a complex chardonnay.
At a retail of $25, I am going to buy a few more bottles as this chardonnay can last for a few more years. I recommend to the chardonnay lover AND the hater to give this wine a shot!
When it comes to chardonnay, I think I give the edge to Sonoma for value. This offering, from a producer who specializes in pinots and chardonnays, can open the chardonnay hater to the beauty of this grape. Oftentimes, chardonnay, particulary California chardonnay, is over-oaked taking away the nuances of the grape. The sad fact is that many people have confused the chardonnay grape with oak, high alcohol, buttery aromas and a full body. Some people love that profile; others hate it. For the lovers, I recommend you try this wine to see the complexity in other chardonnays. For the haters, try this wine and see that California can make beautiful chardonnays and that you might actually enjoy the grape.
This wine was aged 25% in new French Oak barrels for 11 months. The oak was part of the equation, but not the answer. The full body was also part of the equation, as it usually is unless you are drinking a Chablis. This wine had various tropical fruits on the palate and honey on the nose. With almost every draw, I picked up something different. This is a complex chardonnay.
At a retail of $25, I am going to buy a few more bottles as this chardonnay can last for a few more years. I recommend to the chardonnay lover AND the hater to give this wine a shot!
Sunday, January 3, 2010
Tabor Meinhard Forstreiter Gruner Veltliner 2006
Gruner Veltliner, a white grape native to Austria, is a favorite of the sommelier. And with good reason. It is VERY food friendly, along the lines of a riesling. Tabor's effort is BIG TIME, AUSTRIA STYLE.
You may have heard the phrase minerality with respect to wine before and wondered to yourself, "why would I want a mineral flavor in a wine"? Well, the answer is that it brings a crispness of flavor and gives the white wine backbone to age. This is not a sweet wine but it does have some hints of fruit. I picked up grapefruit on the nose and pear on the palate. The minerals on the palate though are the dominant force.
If you haven't had a GV before, and you like dry white wines, I highly recommend you start here. This is a $30 bottle and will go extremely well with spicy food, ASIAN STYLE. I give it a 92.
You may have heard the phrase minerality with respect to wine before and wondered to yourself, "why would I want a mineral flavor in a wine"? Well, the answer is that it brings a crispness of flavor and gives the white wine backbone to age. This is not a sweet wine but it does have some hints of fruit. I picked up grapefruit on the nose and pear on the palate. The minerals on the palate though are the dominant force.
If you haven't had a GV before, and you like dry white wines, I highly recommend you start here. This is a $30 bottle and will go extremely well with spicy food, ASIAN STYLE. I give it a 92.
Saturday, January 2, 2010
New Year's tasting
On special occasions I like to break open a plethora of different wines to continue to understand the differences in grapes and further home in on my preferences.
This year's New Year's tasting included some wines that I have had many times before and others that were new to my palate:
1998 Argyle Extended Tirage (my fourth tasting)
Duval Leroy Non Vintage Brut (my last bottle of a half-case)
Gary Farrell 2007 Redwood Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (first tasting)
2007 Ancien Napa Valley Chardonnay (first tasting)
2007 Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah (first tasting)
2007 Two Hands Bella's Garden Shiraz (first tasting but part of a vertical I am building so I wanted to taste to ensure I want to continue building!)
We started with the Gary Farrell and the Ancien. The Gary Farrell garnered 90 points from Wine Enthusiast, who also denoted it as an Editor's Choice. Let me just say that I am a HUGE fan of the sauvignon blanc grape. I find it extremely food friendly, crisp and refreshing. I drink a lot of the New Zealand and French versions for that very reason. This version was crisp, don't get me wrong, but also very tart. The wine was TOO citrusy for me and I like citrus in a sauvi. I think the acidity was too strong for this wine and as such I found it out of balance. For $20 or so, you can find much better sauvis on the market and I would continue to focus on New Zealand right now. I'd give this wine an 87 and a PASS.
As for the Ancien chard, it was a buttery smooth California chard. For me, California chards that can walk the fine line of having hints of oak without overtaking the beauty of the grape are impressive and this one fit the bill. As for fruits, it was dominated by green apple flavors. I didn't buy this one but it looks like it retails around $30 so it is priced right for the value. I'd give it a 90 and a TRY.
Unfortunately, I am going to pass on giving numerical ratings for either the petite sirah or the shiraz because the wines were too young and we didn't have a chance to properly decant. In fact, I went back and forth on which one I liked better because the grapes were both a little green. With that analysis, however, comes a strong lesson for me. Checking the ageability of the wine is of utmost importance especially as you escalate the price tag. Most wines are meant to be drunk young but most higher priced wines are meant for aging, especially red wines, because they have a strong backbone of tannins which allow the wines to grow with age instead of falling apart. I generally do this but I was a little greedy this year on the shiraz because, as I mentioned, it's part of a vertical I am building on a wine that I have not tasted before. This also is an unconventional move on my part but I have had many other shirazes from Two Hands which I really enjoyed and Bella's Garden is generally considered their best bottling every year. I still think this wine will turn out great but definitely not in the next few years!
Onto the bubblies which I have tasted several times before. Argyle, located in Dundee in the heart of the Willamette Valley, is the best sparkling wine producer in Oregon. They consistently produce top notch sparkling wine for various price ranges. The Extended Tirage is their best, and most expensive, bottling at around $55-$60 per bottle. This wine continues to bat 1,000.00 for me. It is rich, dry, nutty and complex. You would be hard pressed to find a champagne for this price anywhere. I am considering buying a case of it- I give it a 96.
The Duval Leroy Non Vintage Brut is an elegant value. Slightly sweeter than the Argyle, this wine is also dry in nature. It was not as complex or full bodied as the Argyle but it is a tremendous value at $30/bottle. I'd give it a 93. This is a great food wine, which brings me to another topic on champagne/sparkling wine- if you like it, drink it more! It doesn't have to be a special occasion wine, although a bottle of Dom, Krug or La Grand Dame probably are not in your everyday budget. There are values in the $20-$30 range that are perfect compliments to various types of food- ie seafood/sushi, cheese and certain desserts. In my opinion, champagne is one of the most under-utilized grapes with meals.
This year's New Year's tasting included some wines that I have had many times before and others that were new to my palate:
1998 Argyle Extended Tirage (my fourth tasting)
Duval Leroy Non Vintage Brut (my last bottle of a half-case)
Gary Farrell 2007 Redwood Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (first tasting)
2007 Ancien Napa Valley Chardonnay (first tasting)
2007 Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah (first tasting)
2007 Two Hands Bella's Garden Shiraz (first tasting but part of a vertical I am building so I wanted to taste to ensure I want to continue building!)
We started with the Gary Farrell and the Ancien. The Gary Farrell garnered 90 points from Wine Enthusiast, who also denoted it as an Editor's Choice. Let me just say that I am a HUGE fan of the sauvignon blanc grape. I find it extremely food friendly, crisp and refreshing. I drink a lot of the New Zealand and French versions for that very reason. This version was crisp, don't get me wrong, but also very tart. The wine was TOO citrusy for me and I like citrus in a sauvi. I think the acidity was too strong for this wine and as such I found it out of balance. For $20 or so, you can find much better sauvis on the market and I would continue to focus on New Zealand right now. I'd give this wine an 87 and a PASS.
As for the Ancien chard, it was a buttery smooth California chard. For me, California chards that can walk the fine line of having hints of oak without overtaking the beauty of the grape are impressive and this one fit the bill. As for fruits, it was dominated by green apple flavors. I didn't buy this one but it looks like it retails around $30 so it is priced right for the value. I'd give it a 90 and a TRY.
Unfortunately, I am going to pass on giving numerical ratings for either the petite sirah or the shiraz because the wines were too young and we didn't have a chance to properly decant. In fact, I went back and forth on which one I liked better because the grapes were both a little green. With that analysis, however, comes a strong lesson for me. Checking the ageability of the wine is of utmost importance especially as you escalate the price tag. Most wines are meant to be drunk young but most higher priced wines are meant for aging, especially red wines, because they have a strong backbone of tannins which allow the wines to grow with age instead of falling apart. I generally do this but I was a little greedy this year on the shiraz because, as I mentioned, it's part of a vertical I am building on a wine that I have not tasted before. This also is an unconventional move on my part but I have had many other shirazes from Two Hands which I really enjoyed and Bella's Garden is generally considered their best bottling every year. I still think this wine will turn out great but definitely not in the next few years!
Onto the bubblies which I have tasted several times before. Argyle, located in Dundee in the heart of the Willamette Valley, is the best sparkling wine producer in Oregon. They consistently produce top notch sparkling wine for various price ranges. The Extended Tirage is their best, and most expensive, bottling at around $55-$60 per bottle. This wine continues to bat 1,000.00 for me. It is rich, dry, nutty and complex. You would be hard pressed to find a champagne for this price anywhere. I am considering buying a case of it- I give it a 96.
The Duval Leroy Non Vintage Brut is an elegant value. Slightly sweeter than the Argyle, this wine is also dry in nature. It was not as complex or full bodied as the Argyle but it is a tremendous value at $30/bottle. I'd give it a 93. This is a great food wine, which brings me to another topic on champagne/sparkling wine- if you like it, drink it more! It doesn't have to be a special occasion wine, although a bottle of Dom, Krug or La Grand Dame probably are not in your everyday budget. There are values in the $20-$30 range that are perfect compliments to various types of food- ie seafood/sushi, cheese and certain desserts. In my opinion, champagne is one of the most under-utilized grapes with meals.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)