Sunday, February 7, 2010

2007 Frei Brothers Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Suffice it to say that I really appreciate sauvignon blanc. Matt Kramer, writer for Wine Spectator, recently surmised that sauvignon blanc is the most "honest" grape. By that, he meant that it is what it is and is generally not manipulated to induce flavors that are not akin to its very nature. I tend to agree with him. My proof- while it is not the wine I drink the most, I would guess that I would guess correctly when drinking it during a blind tasting more than any other varietal on the planet (and most average, non-expert drinkers would probably as well). I can drink a cold weather or warm weather and I get the crisp, grassy aromas and flavors that I am used to. The degree of which may vary but they are there in all bottles. Further, the fruits may vary but the genetics stay the same and the grassy, herbal characteristics shine right through.
Now, I'm not going to argue something crazy like all sauvignon blancs are tasty treats because they're not. But they are true to themselves and you know what you're getting. As one point of comparison, take the chardonnay grape. It can vary dramatically from the over-oaked Californian or Chilean chardonnay to the ripe versions of Australia to the crisp chablis. The average wine drinker would have a hard time deciphering that each is the same grape. While sauvignon blanc can come oaked or un-oaked as well, the grape's backbone is able to make itself known.
This version in Sonoma, California is a little less vibrant than most of the New Zealand sauvis that I am used to but it really works well. It's grassy, with a hint of grapefruit or melon. It is definitely balanced but I think the complexity is slightly lacking. I don't get much beyond the grass and grapefruit, whereas with NZ versions, you can get multiple layers of fruit and grass and herbs. Maybe it's my overall preference for more in-your-face sauvis, but I'd give this an 88 and again side with Wine Spectator over Robert Parker (90), although ironically for a Robert Parkeresque reason!

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